Been a little while since I posted about local life here in la CDMX. This past Sunday was a nice little outing with the wife. Had some good weather and some things to do, so we headed to Coyoacán. We lived in the Del Carmen / Santa Catarina colonias of Coyoacán between 2017 and 2022. Judy gets back at least once a month I think for errands. And I pass through there every couple of weeks on my errands as well. For a while walking through the center was an every weekend activity. But we don't head there together as often now, so it was nice to get out there for afternoon.
Coyoacán is generally great and charming, of course. But one of the things that Judy misses is the top notch La Comer that we had in the neighborhood. And one of Judy's favorites times of the year here is Temporada Naranja. As I recall it first hit our radar 8, 9, maybe 10 years ago when it was a sale that ran in June with many things offered 2 for 1 or maybe 3 for 2. Specifically I recall giant costco-sized packages of toilet paper stacked to the ceiling in our old market over in Del Valle Sur (formerly La Comer, now a Soriana). Over the years it has grown into a monster promotion that spans multiple months with waves of promotions and huge displays at the grocery.
(Correction: a little googling reminds me it was originally "Julio Regalado", which of course ran in Julio)
We do have a local Sumesa within walking distance of our condo, but since we had other things to do in Coyoacán anyway, we stopped by our old favorite grocery store for a shopping run. This foto below is not staged. Judy was indeed taking a pic of the sign to share her excitement with local friends.
We had a productive run, savoring a full lap of both levels. I noticed the the Cafe Britt coffee and took a shot as a benchmark, since I'll be in Costa Rica next month. I'm curious to see what kind of premium they charge here in México.
We stocked up on various things, including our staple Peñafiel and some non-Britt coffee, which should last me a few weeks.
From there we parked the car on our old street and walked into the center of Coyoacán, heading toward the Mercado, but stopping first for lunch at Maratea.
Judy had been before with friends, but it was my first time. It's nice. Feels a bit like an oasis from all the activity outside on a busy Sunday (aka, a typical Sunday) in Coyoacán. That's a common phenomenon in la CDMX. You can't always see beyond the facade of a place, whether it's a house or a restaurant or even a Notaria. But then you step into a courtyard and a whole other experience from what you were just walking through on the other side of the walls.
It was a relaxed, traditional Sunday lunch with family and friends kind of vibe. Orange trees, water feature, garden pebbles. Very tranquil.
We got a margherita pizza and their version of a caprese salad.
Solid and hit the spot. Their reviews are semi mixed, but we had at least a 4.5 star experience. Pizza, caprese, Topo Chico, una naranjada, and a double espresso for about $650 MXN pre-tip.
During our walk over to the Mercado we passed by the Jardin del Arte Allende where they are still having their weekend dance gatherings.
Stopped by the stand of a contact Judy buys decorative tiles from. She'll be restocking her shelves in Paskwarho with them this coming weekend.
Our final stop was over at Viveros, or, more specifically, within the Mercado de Plantas, where every 2-3 weeks we pick up another 3-4 linear meters of pasto cuernavaca for our balcony (aka, el jardin de perros, aka, our version of an outdoor litter box for the hounds). It's a little bit of a trek and not a small amount of effort, but it's always a nice garden-y vibe there.
After my time exploring Piotrkowska street I headed down to the south side of Łodz, where you find two museums dedicated to the city's 19th & 20th century industrial history.
First was the Herbst Palace - Historic House, which is a restored 19th century compound that illustrates how well the empresarios of Łodz lived. After that I had to check out the Central Museum of Textiles which focuses more on the source of income that allowed those industrial titans to build their palaces and live that lifestyle.
I made my way down there by a combination of tram and Bolt scooter, so I will start with some scene-setting shots of the tram stop
I once again failed to take any pictures from the outside. I think it is because my Bolt scooter was running out of battery and I was distracted by trying to find a place to park it. But you can of course check out the exterior via Google Street View.
I did take a couple of pics once I was inside the gates.
The guard was very welcoming and helpful, as we communicated with gestures and fragments. He pointed me in the right direction.
Snapped a pic of the family tree, in case I decide to do any further investigation of the principals in the story.
Some lovely garden shots ...
There were a few other people visiting the palace on this mid-April Saturday afternoon. The staff's english was not extensive, but it was better than my Polish of course. One nice woman made sure I got the self-guided tour card. Smart, low-tech, effective.
Checked out the dining room ...
Passed through the 'middle parlour' ...
And stopped to take in the 'hunting room', which seemed more like a study, or perhaps a 19th century man cave of sorts with a hunting theme. Probably nice to relax here in front of the fire some late 1800s winter Sunday.
Had my cheat sheet ready for the second floor.
Not going into detail of every room. But a few things caught my eye. First, the Herbst-Scheiblers shared my impulse to display animal-related knicknacks in their home.
Then, while this display case was pretty groovy ...
The real stars of the show for me were the ceramic fireplaces.
I love these things. Think they first hit my radar like 15 years ago during some House Hunter International episode in Sweden. I've now seen them firsthand in a few European palaces. Really should bring them back. Fantastic.
Snapped a couple more shots out in the gardens before heading over to the Textiles Museum, as I was on the clock to get there before they closed.
At the entrance of the Textiles Museum I spotted more of these gnome things at ground level. I had seen some here and there and actually learned the day before in Warsaw that they were to keep the wheels of horse drawn carriages from crashing into the walls. Clever.
Once inside I was told that the Machines in Motion demonstration was going to start in a few minutes and the guy at the desk advised me to make sure I saw that before heading off to explore the rest of the compound. With the couple minutes I did have before the demo I slipped off to take some pictures of the park that is right alongside the museum grounds. Lovely looking spot that would be nice to have in anyone's neighborhood.
Soon enough it was time for Machines in Motion. I took a few establishing shots of the scene.
And then these fellas came in and I guess they explained what was about to happen.
And then they turned on the machines ...
Kinda underwhelming if I'm honest. I don't know exactly what I was expecting. Maybe some more obvious production of woven fabric. To my eye it all looked the same, just louder. If that is what the production experience was like in the late 1800s / early 1900s, then I guess my takeaway is wow, that was some pretty monotonous work that must have made for some long days at the factory.
I had about an hour left before the museum closed, so I ducked out to see the main exhibit hall.
This was pretty cool. Somehow cooler to see the Machines at Rest.
Some educational displays about various fiber types.
And then you can walk through the evolution of the looms over 100+ years from the 1860s to the 1970s.
Surely would have been some value in having a knowledgeable guide with me to talk through the context. But I got the point.
The museum has a number of exhibits and areas to explore. You can get an idea of them on the website by checking out the permanent exhibitions. I saw a little bit of what they promote as City-Fashion-Machine.
Examples of what the stylish people in Łodz were wearing in the 1920/30s and 1970s
The slices I remember were interesting enough, but not sure how I missed what they feature in photos on their site. I feel like that would have been hard to miss. There is also the Microhistories. Łódź and its People exhibit. Unfortunately I didn't have time to fully absorb this, but it seemed well done and interesting.
With limited time I was drawn to the summer home, looking extra appealing in the golden hour light.
There is more on this "Last Summer' exhibit on the website, including more pics. These were a few of my favorite slices.
Having now ticked off my list everything I wanted to cover in my day trip to Łodz, I headed back to Manufaktura to (a) eat something and (b) get a sense of what it is like early on a Saturday evening. Whipped out the Jakodjade app and saw I had a straight shot tram ride. Easy enough.
After a lap of the food court I once again went with the reliable McD's chicken sandwich.
Outside it was becoming more lively.
Including the lines at the donut and pretzel kiosks.
Again, easy enough to navigate my way over to the train station by tram.
Train station looking sharp illuminated for the evening.
Seats on the train had a sweet 80s video game type of vibe.
And I enjoyed a smooth, quiet ride back to Warsaw.
