After spending two nights in Lublin getting to know the city and some of its highlights (find those posts within my Poland page), it was time to head out for Rzeszow. I had seen some compelling videos about Rzeszow on YouTube and it breaks up the drive down to Zakopane, so I thought I'd check it out.
First order of business, however, was to pass by Majdanek. It is just outside the center of the city, off to the southeast side, as you can see in the map below.
Driving over you realize when you get close that you can't miss it. Huge open field with the monument up front facing the road and all the structures standing off in the distance. I took the signage pic below as I was getting near.
Looking back now I realize I should have at least built in some time to park nearby (I see this lot on google maps), but I didn't. This was going to be a full day and I was trying to just get a brief view of the site. So I spun around on this semi major road (Droga Męczenników Majdanka) and pulled over. First I took a picture of the monument.
Then what struck me was people waiting for their bus with all this in the background. Missed them boarding, but snapped this bus stop pic to remember. What a place to just be going about your daily commute, with the weight of history behind you.
I walked up and took a few more pictures as I focused on the feeling of being there.
Obviously my experience was limited and superficial. But even so, it's grim and powerful seeing the sight in person with the vast, flat, open fields and the dark, somber structures. Leaves an impression. Hopefully one day I will have the opportunity for a true visit.
From here it would be about 1h 15m to Zamość, which is deeper in the southeastern region of Poland, not far from the Ukranian border (maybe an hour from the border, then another 2 hours to Lviv).
Took the Renault out on the open road to Zamość, which was pretty flat and mostly rural / agricultural scenery.
Clipped a little video to as reference. As I recall I was behind that VW much of the ride.
Got one scenic shot along the way.
And then before I knew it I was entering the Zamość roundabout.
My strategy upon arrival was to park on the southern side of the center in the lot indicated by the heart icon at the bottom of this screengrab, then stroll some of the perimeter before entering the town.
Zamość has an interesting story worth digging into if that's your thing. It was founded in the 16th century with intent as something of a designed city not too long after the Union of Lublin agreement linking the Kingdom of Poland and Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Its position on the trade route contributed to its importance, and so it was designed to resist intrusions, hence the exterior walls. Its origin date was right in the heart of the Renaissance and those in charge tracked down an Italian who had moved to Poland (Bernardo Morando) to lead the development. I encourage you to google phrases like "Padua of the North" or "Pearl of the Renaissance" to further explore that aspect of Zamość's heritage. There will be more of the Italian style design in pics further below, but first some shots from my route walking clockwise around the southwestern and western edges of town.
(View from my parking spot on the southern edge of the city)
I found an entry point and starting weaving my way into the city from the southwest corner.
I stumbled upon some period piece film production near Brama Szczebrzeska. We all exchanged puzzled looks. Me wondering what they were up to. Them wondering why a tourist was meandering about at noon on an April Thursday.
Bumping into them was perhaps fitting, as the whole town had the feel of a film lot. Look at these streets.
That last one is the southern boundardy of Rynek Wodny, a smaller, satellite square off the main plaza (I mean, Rynek). Smaller Rynek was pretty.
(You can see the tower of the famous town hall off in the distance here)
The larger Rynek is the star attraction of Zamość, so I made my way over there. Took a little clip, again panning too quickly, for reference.
I am a fan of tidy, symmetrical facades. Take pictures of them wherever I see them. So of course I spent a few minutes capturing this scene.
Made my way over to the steps of town hall to get some perspective.
And took the obligatory video from the elevated position.
Mission accomplished getting to the stairs of the Zamość town hall, I went to explore a bit more of the center. Which I saw was similar to the parts I had already seen. More movie lot-esque side streets.
I am mildly curious about the presentation of the lady bakers as seemingly shirtless underneath their aprons. You might think you're heading to a Polish donut shop inspired by the Hooters concept. But you're not. Everyone inside dresses normally. T-shirts mainly. Some baker coats. No one is shirtless.
I also went looking for Podwórko Marka Grechuty (wejście Grodzka 3) which looks lovely and definitely appears in some YouTube videos praising the quaint beauty of Zamość. In retrospect, I think I ducked into a neighboring residential area, which was also cute, but not the IG famous one.
So, that was my brief survey of Zamość. Similar to my stop in Kazimierz Dolny, I clearly was not getting the peak experience, visiting as I was midday, midweek, offseason. But I knew that coming in. Point of the visit was to get an idea of the place. And I can say that if you're in position to pass through during the summer, or on the weekend, it's certainly worth a stop. Historically relevant, architecturally interesting, and undoubtedly well-maintained and charming.
Finished with my Castle / Museum visit, the next thing I wanted to see was Ogród Saski, which would be about a 25-30 minute walk, passing through Old Town and then the main drag of Krakowskie Przedmieście, which extends beyond the multimedia fountain into the more modern part of town.
First, you follow this fairytale-esque road toward Brama Grodzka.
Whenever you pass through a gate like this into an old town it's mandatory that you take pictures from both sides, so I obliged.
This facade caught my attention.
Unclear if it is a museum? Store? Just an installation done by Andzrej Kot? Or in honor of him? Regardless, eye catching and pretty cool.
Not far away you see that some of the structures are still in renovation mode. I would say that compared to what I saw in Łodz, Lublin had fewer project buildings being worked on like this.
Came across another billy goat. And noted an interesting looking restaurant through this little tunnel.
(That's Małe Indie, and it seems like they have two locations. One at Rynek 5, the other at Rybna 2, right around the corner from each other. Well-reviewed.)
Kept heading west, toward Brama Krakowska. Saw another billy goat and a spectacular poster. Wish I saw a smaller version of that design for sale.
The IBB Grand Hotel perhaps marks the transition from the more touristic part of downtown to the more 'local' part.
That mural over in the background is apparently titled 'Dead Ambitions'.
Passed Ukrainoczka and looking at some of the pictures posted to its google maps listing, I'm wishing I ducked in to check out the snack selection.
Next slice that caught my attention was this little mixed residential / commercial sidestreet near ParZona. Reminded me of similar scenes from Paris, or Bucharest, or even the Vomero section of Naples (which is a previous trip I need to get captured here).
Finally made it to Ogród Saski. Watched this couple walk holding hands, thought of the future version of me and Judy, hopefully still traveling.
I did not have time to leisurely stroll through the rest of the park. Looked quite nice. Those folks in the apartment buildings nearby are fortunate to have it in their backyard.
Having seen the park for myself, which is always a good idea as not all 'parks' that you see in google maps are created equal, I started to make my way back to the apartment via a secondary street running parallel to the main drag.
I didn't map out the route like this in real time. That is more to illustrate the wandering I did according to the pictures I took. First pitstop was deliberate, though, to see Hotel Wieniawski, which is one of the partners we work with in Lublin.
(Pics looking in either direction from the front of Hotel Wieniawski. Solid option for those who prefer to stay in parts of town that feel more 'local'.)
Kept walking and snapping some general vibe shots.
(Can't help myself. Still something about reading 'Alkohole' over Polish liquor stores makes me chuckle. This one, Vegas 24, has decent reviews fwiw.)
Some strong billboards for the local hometown brewery. I did not have a chance to try the 9.1%(!) version. Next time maybe.
More vibe shots. Loved the second one even before I noticed that I captured what is apparently a top cinnamon roll bakery joint.
(Thought I was just taking a bus stop scene in front of a generic facade. But that's Zawijane Cinnamon Rolls Bakery, and if you click the foto for a higher res version you can see that the young women on the bench apparently just secured a box of the good stuff for themselves.)
One more stylish shop caught my eye. Kind of place I imagine the wife would have wanted to check out.
Made my way up to that stretch of Krakowskie Przedmieśie that I had walked the night before. Certainly more activity here early afternoon. And very easy to see how it would be terrific to enjoy during some warmer, sunnier days.
(This Pelier Bistro has a 4.8 rating on 3386 reviews. Seems good.)
Got a daytime pic of the Browar Perla building that I passed the night before.
Already feeling nostalgic for my time here in Lublin I took a pic of the building I was staying in, with my blue Renault Clio rental out front.
I noticed behind me an open parking entrance and decided to take a look, see what I was missing by not being able to access mine.
Net - I wasn't missing much.
Last shots of the day were taken when, while catching up on some work stuff, I heard the telltale sounds of a tow truck out in the street. Suddenly unsure of my ability to pull a properly valid 'parking ticket', I leapt to the window.
Renault was all good. At least, mine was. They were taking that black one.
