This year was our 12th consecutive visit to Pátzcuaro & Capula during Day of the Dead season. For our first few visits we made sure to come out during the busiest dates, which tend to be 10/31 - 11/2, as the primary reason for the visit was to experience the holiday traditions. Over time our visits evolved, and the primary purpose of the trip was to pick up pottery orders in Capula, so we might come out on the 25th or 26th and see the very beginning of the town's preparations to receive the thousands of visitors it hosts each year. This year our visit spanned 10/28 - 10/31, which was pretty perfect. The first couple of days we were able to get all of our partner visits done and then enjoy the night of 10/30 in the center of Pátzcuaro as the energy was ascending into the coming weekend.
During our first few visits we made sure to visit some of the local cemeteries in the evening. It's a special atmosphere to experience. I'm struggling to find some pictures from those earlier years. I remember that the Panteón Tzintzuntzan in particular was pretty incredible the first time you walk through it at night. That was part of an organized tour we arranged through the hotel we stayed at, which was Casa Encantada. The following year we decided to venture out and DIY it ourselves. I forget how I learned about the Panteón Arocutín, but I was glad we went to experience that as it was my favorite by far. This pic below if from that visit.
In recent years we have focused mostly on the pottery / shopping, with shorter, goal-oriented trips. This year we had a little more time during our 3-night stay. So when Adriana from Tacos el Cuñadito Juve suggested we check out Panteón del Cristo we decided 'why not?'.
Normally we spend ~90% of our time in Pátzcuaro withing one block of Plaza Vasco de Quiroga, which is very much the center of town. We definitely spend 99% of our time within 2-3 blocks of the center, with occasional passes by the area up via the northeast salida from the center, toward Basilica de Nuestra Señora de la Salud. You can find a smedium-sized tianguis of sorts out there most days, so we sometimes drift through there in case we see something new and exciting. During Día de Muertos this area becomes Cempasuchil Central, as various stands set up along a few hundred meter stretch on both sides of the street with heaps of the vivid orange flowers. Piled up on the ground, on Costco-style folding tables, in the bed of their pickups, wherever and everywhere. It's a sight we always enjoy. Below you can see what I mean.
So ordinarily we will pass through here and then loop back to the center, never venturing further. Now, every 4th or 5th trip Waze might send us home via this 'back' way on Gral Benigno Serrato toward route 14 / 14D for Morelia. And when we've done that we have unwittingly passed by Panteón del Cristo, which you can see indicated by the red pin on the map screenshot below. It also clicked in my little brain that the Cempasuchil set up was conveniently located on the route toward the cemetery. How about that?
On Adriana's recommendation, we made the 20-minute walk from the center to check it out. For some reason Google Maps sent us up around the back of the cemetery first, not to the main entrance. Kind of inconvenient, but resulted in a couple pics from that POV that I would not otherwise have taken, like this one.
We doubled back around the front and did a lap. This was 10/29, so stil a couple days before the holiday. It's always a bit poignant to see the spectrum of graves, from those where relatives have clearly put in a lot of time and effort decorating for their loved ones, to those that have received less attention.
While the pics tell a story, a little video provides another layer of what the atmosphere feels like.
The dates of our October visit to Pátzcuaro vary a bit each year. Our approach has evolved with time. We no longer aim to be in town for the peak of festivities, preferring to arrive early enough to miss the worst of the traffic, the heaviest crowds, and most jacked-up hotel prices, but close enough to the main event so that the artisans are all out on the plaza and the tianguis de comida are set up, too. This year it worked out well.
When stars do align we usually get at least one meal in the tianguis. Really depends on the timing of each day. Sometimes we're still in Capula around lunchtime, so we eat there. It also depends on the stands we see in the lineup, becuase they aren't all created equal. We are pretty basic, looking for tacos and quesadillas rather than platos principales. So we do a stroll up and down the line, which I'd guess has ~20 different stands all calling out to you with quick bullet points on their offering: tacos, quesadillas, que le damos? etc.
Eventually something calls out to us and we grab a seat. Though, that is another factor. Sometimes the places with open seats aren't the places we want to eat at, while the places with good-looking food options are fully jammed. Lot of variables need to come together for a good tianguis experience.
This year we spotted Tacos el Cuñadito Juve and decided to give them a try.
Glad we did. Really tasty food. And very friendly service. Wound up eating here 3 times over our 3-day visit. One light dinner and two lunches. For the light dinner we shared a burrito (1/2 chorizo, 1/2 bistec, when Adriana told us we didn't need to buy two -- how about that for some kindness and integrity; could have easily sold us two burritos). Next day for lunch we went with quesadillas and tacos.
Load them up with that pico de gallo and salsa cremosa de aguacate and you're livin'.
Adriana is the one in the orange shirt. She was all over the place. Calling out to the passerby. Directing diners to their seats, taking orders. And offering advice. She suggested we go see Panteon del Cristo (another post on that coming later).
And you see her as she catches Judy taking a behind the scenes video.
If you come through Pátzcuaro during another time of year when the tianguis are not active you can still visit them as they have a location that is on the way in/out of town. Looks like they are only open at night. But if you're feeling a little adventurous and want some tasty tacos, swing by and say hello to Adriana.
I had read and seen via a few different sources that Kalamaja was the 'cool' part of Tallinn to check out. So I investigated a bit. Turns out Kalamaja is a pretty large area that encompasses most of the near north/northwest area of Tallinn once you leave the boundaries of old town. This includes Balti Jaama Market and Telliskivi, which I checked out in my previous post. There are also some very distinct sections within Kalamaja. You can see in the map screenshot below that I had pinned a few things up north along the waterfront. Supposedly that was an up and coming / developing / cool area to check out. But what I really wound up digging was the central area, just a few blocks straight north / northeast from Balti Jaama.
I pointed my scooter toward the waterfront. Figured I'd head out to the furthest point first, then work my way back toward the ferry. Weather decided to act up and I was scooting through some drizzle, but it never really devolved into full on rain, so I guess I got a little lucky there. Anyway, what you see on your way out to this 'cool' area is that it is still a work in progress. Feels a bit remote from the downtown or even inner Kalamaja, though it is just a quick scooter or bike ride, which would be quite nice in better weather. But signs of the ongoing development were prominent.
You also see a few examples of very cool architecture and design. And I imagine if I were to come back for another visit 5 years down the road there would be more integrated services and shops to make it all feel a bit more complete.
This next one is Noblessneri valukoda, which based on the reviews seems like a solid family-friendly destination, perhpas especially on days when the weather isn't so great.
Given the current weather, I was the only dope outside.
During another visit or another season, stopping for a beverage at Brewklyn Craft Beer Cafe could be worthwhile. But not today. Now it was time to head back to see other parts of the Kalamaja district.
I pointed myself in the general east/southeast direction and found a scooter parking zone near what turned out to be Soo Uulits Tänavagurmee .
This would be a good a point as any to start meandering around the zone. And I was blown away by what I was seeing. Wow. Very cool vibes. Residential. Mix of achitectural styles in varying states of upkeep. Juxtaposition of traditional with hyper modern. Punctuated with super local retail/food outlets. Felt like a cool place to spend more time in. Like a week or two, not a couple of hours. Difficult to edit myself here with the photo inclusion because I found it all fascinating. I mean, check these out:
Spotted a sub division with an inviting entry and wandered in this direction a bit.
Eventually came out to this spot where in one direction you're facing homes that evince quintessential bucolic vibes.
But turnaround and there are those ultra current shipping-container-chic homes that you might order from Temu.
Wild.
Could not stop taking pictures as I continued on through this funky, funky neighborhood.
Thought I'd try one more pass through Balti Jaama on the way to the ferry, but it closes early on Sunday. Then this Lavazza vending machine appeared to me like a beacon.
I'd been out roaming for 5+ hours at this point in upper 40s, windy weather. A vending machine hot chocolate was just what the doctor ordered to warm me up somewhat before one last scoot to the ferry. (Btw, hot chocolate was 10/10, would recommend). Found a parking spot for the Bolt, and headed to the terminal.
Beautiful and comfortable place to await your departure.
Got sucked over to the store to see what they had.
Decided to bring the dogs a stuffed something. They enjoy a variety of soft things on which they can lounge at leisure. You can see Lucha below resting on a plush sandia that we picked up here in la CDMX somewhere. Mia is on a plush cat that we brought back from Poland.
So when I saw that the symbol / mascot of Tallink was a harp seal pup, I thought that would be a good addition to the collection. It was a bit too firm though. The anime strawberry was plush, but random af. I eventually found a little penguin (not pictured) that seemed more appropriate.
With that gift secured my time in Tallinn was done. Back on the boat to Helsinki.
