My last full day in Cusco was spent experiencing the long, full-day excursion out to Rainbow Mountain. One of the big things people wrestle with is whether 'it's worth it', because it is a FULL day. The ratio of time-in-van to time-on-mountain is heavy. My day started with a hotel pick up at 745am. I got back around 630pm. So 10 hours and 45 minutes total, with about 6 of those spent in the van. Another 3.25 hours actually hiking the site. And about 1-1.25 hours of pit stops at the restaurant where had a late lunch on the way back to Cusco. Also factoring into my personal calculus of "is it worth it?" were the facts that I only had 3 nights in Cusco and the day after my hike I'd be hopping onto a 11-hour 'touristic bus' ride heading to Puno, which would depart Cusco at 630am. So, my heavy day of visiting Rainbow Mountain was tightly squeezed into a generally heavy itinerary. So what was my verdict? Scroll on to find out ...
The ride out breaks down into 3 parts:
* Traffic leaving Cusco on route 3S
* The ride on 3S between the Cusco outskirts and the access road to the mountain
* The ~1 hour ride on that windy, undulating dirt road that finally leads to the trail head
The first part is a drag, but there is no avoiding it.
My guide made the most of it, though. The towns you pass through -- Saylla, Tipón, and Oropesa -- each have their respective points of distinct culinary pride. Saylla is famous for its chiconerias. If you're looking for Cuy, then it's Tipón and its cuyerias. And Oropesa is known as the bread capital for its 'chuta' bread. So I got that orientation as we passed through those towns one after the other in quick succession. And the payoff was stopping at Panificadora Yapita for a loaf.
Enjoyed a few bites as we continued along.
Once out of the heavy traffic I settled in for the bulk of the drive, which is ~2 hours before you reach the unpaved access road. Snapped a few scenery pics.
For the first stretch of the unpaved road you're in a village / community type setting, passing by homes, shepherds, a school, etc.
Then it's a good hour of winding, moutainous scenery. I have dozens of pictures, but will share a couple representative shots and a video to provide a sense of what you're traveling through.
Eventually you reach the destination and the local officials grant entry to the parking. Pay for your entradas and you're ready to embark on the hike.
Gorgeous scenery right off the bat.
But before I get more into what I saw / did along the way, let's level set with some key facts about the Rainbow Mountain trail according to Gemini.
I'm not sure where that peak altitude of 5200m is. The signage I saw at the very top indicated we were at 5035m. Pretty high either way. I have been living at ~2300 for the past 12 years, so I was hopeful that my body wouldn't be too shocked. 2300m is higher than zero, but still a long way from 4300 - 5000m. So I wasn't sure how I'd react. If you want to experience the scenery of the hike but aren't sure if you will be up for the 'hiking' part of the hike there are some local who can escort you with a ride on their horses.
When I heard about this potential assistance pre-hike I expected it might be cheesy. Like ride-a-sad-pony-at-the-local-fair kind of thing. But when I saw it in action it wasn't bad at all. My guide said during high season maybe 70% of people use the horses. I'd guess it was more like 5-10% the day we were there. Slow day for the locals, who I think earn $/80 - $/90 soles per rider.
So, having not had an immediate heart attack or any other respiratory breakdown when I got out of the van, I decided to try it on my own two legs. Plus the broom handle 'walking stick' I was offered as an aid.
Looking at the time stamps on my pictures, it was just under 2 hours from buying my entrance tickets to snapping a picture at the very top. The hike advances in stages. Extended sections of flat / flattish terrain that alternate with shorter 'gain' sections where the incline picks up a good amount.
You naturally pace yourself, catch your breath, take some pictures, regroup, continue. Repeat the cycle. And as you go you might bump into a couple shepherding their llamas along the trail.
There are some savvy locals positioned further along the trail, waiting for those who realize they overestimated their ability / desire to do it solo.
Some of these final slopes I definitely took my time and stopped every 20m. But I was never close to calling for the horse. Plus, they can only get you so far. The very last stages are vertical stairs where you either do it on your own or you don't do it.
Looking back at what you've done provides some perspective on the climb.
But there is still some work to do.
Snagged a video for perspective. Can hear the labored breathing.
Now the views really start to kick in.
When you reach the first 'peak' you find some enterprising locals ready to sell you souvenirs, snacks, and hot drinks. We got a hot chocolate, but I think it was on the way down.
I say 'way down' because there is still more 'up' to deal with.
Honestly, that last part was not as difficult as it looks. It might be partly due to adrenaline. It's largely thanks to the stairs they have carved into the trail. Either way, it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. And of course the views keep getting better.
Not sure what came over me, but I felt compelled to capture the moment with the altitude sign (5035 msnm, aka 5035 meters sobre nivel de mar, aka, pretty high above sea level). Just wish my guide went for the landscape view.
I can also say that whatever the elevation difference is between 'first peak' and 'ultimate peak' is, you feel it in the form of wind and temperature. Crisp up there.
With the moment propertly appreciated, it was time to head back down.
Walk back was nice. Skies cleared a bit. And we had the trail largely to ourselves. Guess others try to head out super early for some reason. I was okay with our timing. And grateful that the shifting weather provided a different perspective on the scenery.
Unlike Huayna Picchu, this is a lot easier on the way back. A mostly gentle downhill walk. When we got to the van we saw that the staff had packed up early for the day, which means the public restrooms there were not available. Fortunately my guides knew of picturesque alternative on the road back to civilization.
On the drive back to Cusco we stopped at Meson Andino, which might well be the one and only restaurant along that stretch of route 3S. Nice setting.
Enjoyed my chicken soup. Regretted the 'pork belly' that the server recommended. Should have gone with the lomo saltado, which is what both the guide and driver ordered. In retrospect that was an obvious tell.
Post hike, post late lunch it was time for a hard snooze on the ride back to Cusco.
So, was it 'worth it'?
What I would say is that I am glad I did it. Definitely felt a sense of accomplishment. And the scenery is gorgeous. Now, my experience was private. Had the van to myself. Was able to walk the trail at my pace. Don't think I'd want to be part of a group experience in a full van, dealing with the varying pace of others on the trail. But that's my personality. Different strokes for different folks.
Later that night back in Cusco I congratulated myself with a light dinner of soup, 'caprese' salad, and a local IPA at Piedra y Sal.
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