After a productive first day and a morning visit to the nuevo mercado in Pátzcuaro, we had another day in Capula ahead of us. On the agenda was meeting with one of our partners to see what he had available. Then Judy and I both had specific orders to pick up from different artisans. And we always do a lap or two of the main drag where all the stands are set up, just in case we see something we want to bring home with us.
When the town is set up for a full festival we tend to park on the very west end of Avenida Vasco de Quiroga, in front of the Mercado de Artesania. Then we make the walk to see who and what we need to see. On our way in we stopped to pick up some snacks from this guy. One package of pistachios, one package of candied pecans, and a small package of chocopiedras for $200 MXN (little less than $11). Maybe not a screaming bargain, but good to have the snacks on hand and buy local.
Then a stroll through the familiar set up with assorted stands on either side of the street.
As we got closer to the center of town we made the turns to get off onto the back street and visit our partner at his home / workshop (the one on the left with the older fellow posted out front keeping an eye on things).
Our pick up here was relatively small. Every partner we work with is a family business. And sadly a few of them have had health-related setbacks in the past couple of years. When they are down a pair of hands their production dips. Most obviously there is one less person who is able to paint, but also the rest of the family is of course spending time caring for the member who is ill and needs support -- e.g., doctor appointments or hospitalization off in Morelia, nevermind all the general household chores and such. The good news here is the mother-in-law who was hospitalized with a serious scare is home and looking incredibly well. She'll be back to work soon and they told us they have recently recruited a couple of cousins into the operation. So we expect our October pick up from them to be back to normal.
While they packed everything up for us we backtracked toward the church where people were getting set up for the evening's festivities. What festivities you ask - check out the town's videos on Facebook, like this one.
Since we were also close to the main food hall and hungry, we stopped for some tacos dorados. Simple papas y queso with some salsa verde. And the accompaniment of local músicos. We had also picked up a delicious family-size agua de sabor (limón y pepino). $40 for the agua, $50 for the tacos (4 pzas), and $10 for the músicos. Lunch and entertainment for $100 MXN.
Energized by the pitstop, we were ready to head back to Pátzcuaro. But first, after passing by the 'exit' for the town of Cuanajo dozens of times over the years, I decided today was the day we had time to go check it out. The town is reknowned in Mexico (and maybe beyond) for artisanal furniture. Some absolute master carpenters and furniture makers here. We have seen their work at the major festivals and tianguis in Pátzcuaro and Uruapan. But we have never stopped through the town to actually check it out first hand. First thing I can say is that it was a pretty little detour. Lovely weather, beautiful landscape. What's not to like?
What got our attention to stop was this sign:
Which was in front of this unassuming house:
Unfortunately, no pictures allowed inside. But I tell you their stuff is spectacular. Some absolutely amazing pieces. Rocking chairs (single, double, hasta un triple). Salas decoradas y tejidas. Handmade benches, tables, and chairs. All with gorgeous hand-painted details and hand-woven seat cushions. Beautiful. We are not currently in the market for new furniture. Nor do we have a casa campestre to furnish. But at some point in my life I'm getting either a rocker (silla mesadora) or one of the 'triple' benches. In the meantime, I have these nice pics showing the vista from just inside the showroom. If you're in the area and want to stop by, it's Galeria de Liliana.
Pleased with my decision to stop in Cuanajo, we went back to the hotel in Pátzcuaro for some rest. Watched a bit of the Capula parade via their Facebook livestream ...
Then grabbed dinner at Obsidiana Manjares, which until fairly recently was La Surtidora Argentina. Changed their name and freshened up the interior a bit. But menu is pretty much exactly the same. Cool and cloudy / rainy, so we ate inside. Got a few of the standards. Loaded baked potato, choripan, and a house salad. Good wrap up to another solid day out in Michoacán.
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