How I spent a Saturday in Łodz, Poland: Part II - exploring the Piotrkowska Street corridor

After spending roughly 90 minutes getting familiar with Manufaktura and Poznański's Palace, my next objective was spending time exploring Piotrkowska Street. Unlike many Polish cities, Łodz does not have a central Rynek or market square. If you visit Krakow, Wrocław, Poznan, Bolesławiec, etc. those cities all have Ryneks at the center of town. That's where you find the important municipal buildings, churches, restaurants, and retail. It's the town's center of gravity and experiential magnet to which all visitors are drawn. Łodz does not have a rynek. Manufaktura has come to serve a role similar to a more traditional rynek. And it is complemented by Piotrkowska street, which is a central artery running for ~3 miles north-south through the city from Wolności Square to Plac Niepodległości.

If you visit Łodz during the more pleasant summer months you can look forward to an experience that more resembles what YouTuber FilmEveryday captures in the video below:



I was there April 11th, so it was cooler, mostly grey, and somewhat subdued. Nonetheless, I enjoyed the day and could certainly see the potential for those visiting during prime time.

I started at the northern end, near Park Śledzia.

Note the fellas playing ping pong. I'd enjoy having a ping pong table in my local parque

Then there is a little stretch between the park and Plac Wolności before you get to Piotrkowska. It's Nowomiejska. Eye-catching mural and empty lot. Curious to see what that turns into.

Short walk from the edge of the park to Plac Wolności, where I snapped a couple of shots and a short video to remember how it felt. Mostly quiet.

Head south and you're officially starting the stroll of Piotrkowska street.

Right near the top of Piotrkowska is the famous Pasaź Rózy. The overcast conditions meant I didn't get the full sunshine effect of the mirrors. Still, interesting to see.

Not totally sure what this guy was offering. Some professional style video clip of you in the passage, I think. Was a tough sell this day.

You can read more about the project here on its official site.

The street itself is full of restaurants and shops plus interesting 19th century architecture in various states of restoration / renovation.

You see things like Nitka, which looked like a place I'd want to try were I staying here for more than 10 hours.

And then right next door, a big empty lot.

Zooming in on that pic you can read Kamienica Konesera. And running a quick Gemini search for that in english, it says that a combo residential / retail development is on the way.

I am inclined to duck down into alleyways and other miscellaneous doorways as I stroll. And I have learned in Poland in particular sometimes the most interesting bits are back behind the facades you see on the main drag. Piotrkowska street was no different. Sometimes it's just parking and trash bins.

Sometimes there are restaurants and cafes worth checking out. Like Imber and Miriam.

And sometimes it's a sharp-looking, recently renovated residential zone.

Net - don't skip the side streets when meandering around Łodz.

On my way down to see OFF Piortrkowska I veered a block east to Henryka Sienkiewicza, which runs parallel to Piotrkowska. I wanted to get a look at the park (Sienkiewicz Park). I grabbed an espresso from Kiosk and then went to enjoy it from a bench where I watched a few people exercising their hounds. Pleasantly relaxing and easy to see how it could be nice to spend a few quiet weeks in this part of the city.

Shot of a new-ish apartment building not far from the park

Given the path I took I wound up entering into OFF Piotrkowska via the back door.

Cool industrial vibes.

Reminded me a bit of Telliskivi Creative City in Tallinn, but smaller, more compact. Plenty of shops and restaurants that looked worth checking out. Len i Bawełna caught my eye in particular.

I weaved my way out through the ... front yard? Feels like there should be some cornhole or badminton happening here.

Now done with my lap of Piotkowska I aimed myself to the tram stop for a trip down to see some of the musesum on the south side of the city. But first a shot of a mural and the intersection where Józefa Piłsudskiego marks the north/south midpoint of Piotrkowska.